How do I install and set up my new Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer (HS220)?

How do I install and set up my new Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer (HS220)?

This FAQ draft is intended for testing only.  Future drafts will revise for public release.

This FAQ provides help for completing the wiring, physical installation, and Kasa app setup of the TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer (model HS220).  This FAQ is supplemental to the step-by-step installation instructions provided in the Kasa app.

• How do I know if my lights can be dimmed?
• What electrical wiring do I need?
• Where can I install my HS220 Dimmer?
• What types of bulbs are compatible with the HS220 Dimmer?
• Why do my LED bulbs not dim as low as I want?
• Why do my bulbs flicker when being dimmed?
• Why do my bulbs buzz when being dimmed?
• What does the HS220 bulb calibration and test do?
• What if I change my bulbs?  Will my HS220 still work?

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Q. How do I know if my lights can be dimmed?

• Most common residential lighting can be dimmed.  However, the dimming performance can vary significantly between different types of light bulbs and even between brands and models.
• The HS220 is specifically designed for today’s energy efficient dimmable LED light bulbs (150W max).  However, it can also be used with traditional Incandescent bulbs (300W max).
• Not all LED bulbs are designed to be dimmable.  LED bulb manufacturers typically mark bulb packaging with an icon and label it as dimmable if it has been designed to work with dimming.  If your LED bulb flickers, pulses, buzzes, or has a limited dimming range, it likely was not designed for dimming and should be replaced.
• The HS220 Dimmer is not designed to dim Fluorescent, Magnetic-Low-Voltage (MLV), Compact Fluorescent (CFL), Electronic-Low-Voltage (ELV) ballasts, or 0-10V lighting.

Q. What does the HS220 bulb calibration and test do?

• Because bulb dimming performance can vary widely between different makes and models, the HS220 Dimmer enables you to set the dimming range.  This will match the accessible dimming range used by the HS220 to your specific bulbs and avoid any “dead band” where the dimmer sets the brightness level to a range where the bulb is not capable of producing light.